STRIPPING AND COAT CARE
TWO TYPES OF HAIR
Breed of JRT has two basic hair varieties - smooth and rough, both those types can be bred together and both varieties are also shown together. By breeding those two varieties together we have diverse intermediate level of hair type - from smooth, through „broken“ to very rough type of hair. All of these hair types are according to a breed standard and none of them should be prefered or penalised. Breeding of smooth and rough hair types together is very good and desirable for the breed. One of the reason is to keep quality of coat and second is to prevent reduction of genetic potencial, which happend to so many breeds after each of the varieties had been bred separately.
MEANING OF STRIPPING
Rought hair of JRT has several peculiarities and advantages. Dog does not loose so many hair as the smooth variety, or moulting undercoat is caught by longer hairs, it is selfcleaning and protects againts cold weather better than smooth hair. But rought coat has to be stripped so that the new hairs can grow and to eliminate skin problems. This dog must not be shaved or clipped too much by no means! Standard says nothing about show grooming of the hair, but stripped dog looks surely better than ungroomed one. In adition by good tricks you can highlight qualities of your dog and hide a little bit his lacks. At show good or wrong grooming can affect final placing. In each case also not shown dogs have to be stripped. They can not get rid of the old hairs, so we have to help them.
Basic supplies for stripping are: two stripping knives of different thinness , thinning shears, stripping cream and brush. An excellent supply are also your own fingers. JRT grooming os not difficult, although begining does not have to be easy. But do not get frightened and go for it, you can learn only by practicing! The very first grooming will not look very well but after few more attempts you will find out what fits to your dog, where to keep longer hair and where to cut it!
GROOMING STEP BY STEP
Body and scruff are groomed by thin stripping knife so that the hairs woun't be too long, but dog most not become hairless either! When grooming a marked dogs, pay attention to coloured marks, where coat may be a different quality than the white coat around and you can easily make a "hole" into dogs coat. Strip the white hairs and carefully strip the coloured marks at the end.
2. Hind part of the body, tail and legs
After the body is done we can continue to back part, where first of all we clip hairs around rectum, projecting hairs on inside of tail, which is ofcourse pre-stripped and we roundly cut end of the tail. We shortly clip hair swirls on thighs and strip the hairs there. Hairs on feet are roundly cut by thinning shears (too long hairs may feet look like a hare feet)and use stripping knife to groom coat on wrists, elbows and everywhere it is necessary.
3. Head and neck
Continue on head by stripping hairs on top, forehead and cheeks. Leave more coat on muzzle and under the eyes - here use thinning seasors for cutting exact shape. It is also good to remove hairs inside of ears, where it could make problems later. From head continue to neck, where hairs have to be stripped very shortly and use shears to cut projecting hairs in swirls. Leave a stripe of hair on forchest.
4. Sensitive places
At the end use pumice for removing single hairs that were not stripped by knife. Pumice cal also be used for removing hairs from chest and flank, where stripping could cause a pain to our dog, you can also use thinning shears. Chest of JRT shouldn't be too much bulky and therefore you have to remove hairs from dogs chest, so it will not make ugly hinges and it will not optically deepen and expand it. You will use a pamice as a brush, that will catch and strip too long hairs by one stroke. It does not make any holes on coat and you can use it as a stripping knife.
At the end look at the whole dog and finish details, that you forgot or that do not look harmonic. It usually does not take longer than one hour and most of dogs have no problems dealing with that. If you are grooimg for show, you should groom your dog with broken type of hair about two weeks before the show and about 1 month before the show in case of rough hair variety. Before the show do only little details, so that whole grooming will look very natural.
6. Bathing and coat care
If you are not showing your dog, you should not bath your dog too often and only with a special shampoo for rough hair terriers. If it is not really necessary, better shower your dog by stream of lukewarm water or use powder shampoo, that you rub into dry coat and after comb it out well. Never use a shampoo before a show, that would make hairs too soft and dogs coat would "open". While bathing protect dogs eyes, ears and all mucous membranes so they can not get in contact with cosmetics. If that happends, rinse eyes and clean all cavities by a cotton swab and dry them.
7. Grooming of short hair
For bathing the same rules as for rough hair are valid. Brush dog continuously, more often in time of molting. For smooth hair use gummy brsh and classic brush for rough type of hair. Also short hair should be groomed more for show. But for this you need only thinning shears and gummy brush. Use shears to clip projecting hairs on neckm, thighs, belly and to cut hairs on tail the same way we desciber above.
8. At the end
Parson and also Jack Russell terrier are a hunting breeds, that were bred for many years without any pressure of show ring fashion and it should stay like that. It is a breed of huge endurance and resistance, that should look very naturally - also in his body build, coat type and other proportions, that should be fit for purpose!
EARS STICKING UP
During their life Jacks have a different life periods. When puppy is 4 months old it still continues its growth and its teeth are changing. Its is big task for little organismus of puppy. If it gets high quality puppy food with balanced phosphorus and calcium everything should be OK. Although watch carefully shape and position of ears. Each right Jack has ears downcast and adjacent to its head. At the age of 4 months ears can be very different from ideal - they lift up, break or set free. That is why it is necessary to give them good shape and right direction for their growth. The best way is to give massage and stick them up. Sticking up of ears only makes sence with young dogs, whose growth is not yet finished, that is until 9 months of age, it makes no sence to try that later. Three the most common ways of sticking up ears are described below.
This way is less "drastic" for the ear but works very well against smaller defects, that are more associated with time when teeth are changing than with wrong shape of ear or wrong lowering. As you can see from the pictures you need a simple medical tape, that you have to separate in two along. We start to stick from a place, where ear should naturaly turn down, to its top - we stick one half of tape from the inner side of the ear and the second from outside. This way you firm outer edge, that was like breaking before, you set a right shape and direction of lowering.
This way is more radical, but works well for dog, whose ear has bigger defect and the first way did not work well. You have to fold part of the ear, from the top to a place where ear lowers (see the picture). This way you make a little roll from ear, that fix the right shape and lowering. But be very careful! By this way of sticking up you can spoil ear more than it was before by breaking them. In general - use this way only there, where everything else failed.
For standing ears. Cut off four pieces of tape, two longer and two shorter. Stick the longer part to the top of ear from the inside and shorter from the outside. Do the same with the second ear. Then stick both parts of tape under dogs head so they can not stick or choke. Our aim is to pull ears a bit down to the right position. This way of sticking reminds helm a little bit.
If you decide to start sticking up your dogs ears, do not forget that from time to time you have to let ears to rest. It is necessary to check sticked ears everyday, if they are not red or irritated. Use only fine material, that will not harm your dog.
A word at the end - evidently wrong ears can not be improved by anything and sometimes it is even better to leave them, than force them to grow a different way than naturaly. Nevertheless you can try to.
Lakelands have two different hairs. Soft undercoat which keeps dog warm, and wire hairs that prevent dog from weather. Lakelands get rid of their coat naturally. Hand-stripping of the hairs also helps the natural coat changing (due to regular intervals) and supports also growing of the new coat, keeps structure and color of the coat. Difference between ungroomed and groomed lakeland terrier is huge. Dog untouched by grooming is looking co much typical shapes of the breed, has long and curly coat of unsaturated colour. The coat is also much softer than coat of hand-stripping dog. Most of the owners do grooming by scissors, which leads to less saturated colour and worse coat structure (softer coat), but when done well the dog can get a great shape. Is the dog is being comped frequently (twice a week), its coat is not going to be mat and dog is going to feel comfortably and happy.
If the dog is beeing groomed manually well it does not cause him any pain. Hairs have to be removed naturally, so that old hairs are being removed to makde space for new hairs to grow. Manual removing of the old hairs will cause no pain to your dog if you keep in ming that hairs have to be removed in coat growth direction. When you are learning this pay attention to the direction of hair growing. It is easy to bee seen on the back, where hairs grom from head to tail. But other places, like sides of a neck, are very tricky. The longer hairs the more difficult recognizing of the coat growth direction. For the beginning you can get a little help by looking at photos of well groomed lakeland terrier (or see one in reality), in order to see how the coat growth direction is changing.
Hairs are stretched in coat growth direction. Several parts of dogs body is recognized in order to help you see where to remove the coat and how long to keep it. Following scheme will make it clearer for you:
Section marked as „A“ are called flat parts. Here teh hairs are shortest and lay flat on dogs body. These parts are being groomed once a week with show dogs.
Section marked as „C“ are called jacket. Here coat is being groomed by rakes and rest of wire coat are removed to the middle lenght.
Section marked as „B“ are placed between flat and coat parts. Here hairs are being groomed from jacket lenght to short coat, which is next to flat parts.
Section marked with arrows are called "adjustments". These sections aroung nose and legs have the longest coat of all. It has both undercoat and also places with longest wire hairs.
Of course ideal lenght of hairs is being individual with each dog. In general we can say that lakekand needs about 6 days to get flat parts, 6 weeks to get sufficient jacket and 6 months for the parts with longests hairs to grow fully.